The Fantasy World of Rodarte Fall 16
“Both Sides Now,” Judy Collins’s cover of Joni Mitchell’s dream-like tune sets the tone and sweetens the ear as the Rodarte girls saunter a runway of rubble, LED strip lights, and a mingling of orchids and lilies. Some are fully bloomed, others dead and crisp. The peculiar setup isn’t an unlikely one for the Mulleavy sisters, who are known to live in a make-believe world of revery and fantasy.
The sisters both credit their West-Coast upbringing - graduates of UC Berkeley - as inspiration for their collections, and the ethereal presentation of two sides of sinister was no different. The LA-based designer’s fall collection which debuted at New York Fashion Week played homage to the memories they made in San Francisco. “The city looks like pastel sea shells coming up on a mound. It’s one of the most beautiful cities in the world” says Laura. Rather than referencing the banality of San Francisco’s hippie, peace, and love affiliations, they instead referenced art nouveau; the style seen on old posters in some of the city’s historic music venues. It had little correlation with psychedelia and drug culture, though some of the collection shows a mythical, trance-like patterns set against heavy leather and ruffles. The entire collection plays on contrasting elements of light and dark, angelic and sinister, from an indefinable time period, much like that of where a dream can take your mind, into alternate eras of imaginability. It hints at the seventies and eighties with fur, flowers, and leather sash belts, but disconcerts the reference when we see almost elfin-looking accessories accompanying an embellished peasant dress, metal flowers in the hair, and intricate arm cuffs. It's a gypsy-nymph daydream. |
Photo: wwd.com
|
Photos: wwd.com
A crimson lace dress with a sheer neckline of ruffles gives a romantic feel, while a structured shoulder, reminiscent of the eighties shoulder-pad keeps it powerful. The dress moves from light to dark as cascading blood-colored petals fall from the waist. Gold floral crown accents shine like a elfin halo. A bleeding paragon of virtue.
|
The Rodarte sisters don’t follow the trends, nor do they care about the seasons. Sheer lingerie style dresses go from spring to fall, yet heavy spiraled leather gloves and ruffled patchwork booties remain appropriate. It’s sinister, sexy, and a bit twisted.
|
A ruffled leather bodice-like top sits over a slinky rib-knit sweater. The garment is one-sided, stretched out, and strewed with ladders and holes. Ghastly meets god-like with translucent lace trousers like that of a bridal veil. Pair that with t-bar dancing shoes and a cerise lip for disparity at the utmost.
|
Video: vogue youtube channel
Photos: rodarte.net